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Woodpecker Hill occupies a diverting tardis of a building, and at night it emits onto Parnell Rd the small-windowed warmth of an American ski lodge. Inside, thick sheepskins and mustard plaid extend the metaphor, interrupted by stained black coconut wood and Chinese parasols. It may sound like an odd juxtaposition, but Che Barrington’s decision to combine American barbecue with Southeast-Asian flavours was and still is a stroke of genius. From freshly shucked oysters with ginger, smoked chilli and coriander to 14-hour smoked beef brisket with green chilli, lemongrass and galangal, each dish is a tease of the palate. We love that there are American wines and a “bourbon library”; they add to the metropolitan coolness of this exceptional city-fringe bistro.